darkmarx

That's a good sized heater. It could be filled with sediment and not working efficiently. If you haven't emptied it recently, it might be worth it.

If it's clean, you can try turning it up. It will make full-hot from your faucet hotter, so be careful of scalding yourself, but it will make the hot water last longer.

You could also get a slightly lower flow shower head. Using less water at a time will allow it to last longer and keep do better keeping up with the empty rate.

If none of that works or is something you want to try, you could always replace with a tankless and never run out. Though you'll waste a bit more water each time you turn on the hot since it takes a few seconds to kick in, but you won't run out.

Yeah, let's do nothing and let the children of people we don't like die. And in the meantime, let's put other particularly vulnerable - like the immunocompromised - at risk. But we'll sure show a handful of people how right we were the whole time.

You might want to rethink your moral compass.

Sometimes, the best you can do is explain a bad decision when you see it. The people who really want to do it will ignore you. The hope is to get the people on the fence to not do it. You won't get them all, but if it saves even one child, it's worth it.

"The government" is multiple agencies and departments. There is no single computer system, database, mainframe, or file store that the entire US goverment uses. There is no standard programming language used. There is no standard server configuration. Each agency is different. Each software project is different.

When someone says the government doesn't use sql, they don't know what they are talking about. It could be refering to the fact that many government systems are ancient mainframe applications that store everything in vsam. But it is patently false that the government doesn't use sql. I've been on a number of government contracts over the years, spanning multiple agencies. MsSQL was used in all but one.

Furthermore, some people share SSNs, they are not unique. It's a common misconception that they are, but anyone working on a government software learns this pretty quickly. The fact that it seems to be a big shock goes to show that he doesn't know what he is doing and neither do the people reporting to him.

Not only is he failing to understand the technology, he is failing to understand the underlying data he is looking at.

My guess is that the label is wrong. My water bill has the same chart with about double the usage as yours, but same ranges. On mine, the label is "gal (in hundreds)". I'm betting that some developer just didn't put the full label on the screen.

He didn't even work for the company, his wife did. She had him record the lines on a tape recorder in their livingroom. She sold it to the company for a few hundred dollars.

Best audio book I've listened to... Dungeon Crawler Carl. Great story. Amazing audio book production.

I agree with what you're saying. They got the phone from Carrier A with the expectation the phone plan went with it. Once the phone is paid off, they can take the phone to Carrier B. Since they phone is basically bought on an interest free loan, the interest is recouped by the plan, and the collateral for not paying is a loss of the phone plan and use of the phone. To leave the plan, payoff the phone.

That does require that, the moment the phone is paid off, it should be automatically unlocked. There shouldn't have to be a request or additional waiting. And the customer should be notified that it's unlocked along with an explanation that they can now use the phone with any other provider.

Historically, this is exactly how theological disputes were handled. See Crusades on Wikipedia for more information.

If that were the case, how did you know to post about it?

If you're getting water inside, Jchannel is probably the least of your concerns. Something isn't sealed correctly. Unfortunately, if you have water getting in, you have water in your wall. Even if you seal the window, you could end up with a mold issue.

If it was me, I'd pull the window, ensure all flashing and housewrap is in place, the reseat the window in a thick bead of silicone. Assuming the window is still in good shape. Otherwise, a new window is needed. Once the window is in place, trim, jchannel, and siding would be put back.

Once the window is properly installed, I'd focus on the inside. Pull the trim and drywall around the window, letting it air out for a day then coat the inside sheeting with mold killing primer. New insulation would be added before new drywall is put in. Then mud, sand, paint, and reinstall the trim.

It's a decent amount of work, but not insurmountable. My concern is, if it was installed incorrectly, chances are, your other windows were too. I'm not trying to be doom and gloom here, just trying to forewarn you. It's something to keep an eye on.

All of this is assuming the problem isn't something like a window left open or something like that.

Thanks Sata . . . What the fuck is wrong with you? Who hurt you? You will live rent free in my head for a long time. Just so you know, I hate you for that. You magnificent bastard, you. Bravo. Bra fucking vo. 👏👏

The silver things are runners with ball bearings that drawer slides on. The slides that attach to the drawer will snap into these silver runners.

Usually, you just need to align the slides on the drawer with the runners and push. They should snap in. The runners tend to slide around while connecting them. If they slide to the back, it's ok, they will still connect once you get them lined up and push the drawer into them. If you can reach from underneath, you can hold the runner in place while attaching the drawer. Do one side at a time.

If you're struggling to get it to connect, I recommend removing the slide from the side of the drawer and seeing if you can get a single slide to attach to the runner. It will click when it attaches. By doing just one, you might have an easier time seeing how it connects.

Once you figure it out, you'll need to disconnect it. There should be a little plastic lever that you hold down (or up, depending on the side) while you pull out the slide. Put it back on the drawer and see if you can connect it once it's back on the drawer.

They are a little complicated, but once you see how it goes together, it should make sense. If what I said is still confusing or if you are still struggling, reply and I'll see if I can get some pictures to explain it better.

• Edit: A common mistake I've seen is putting the slides on the drawer backwards. The part attached to the drawer should have the flat part against the drawer. The drawer should look like this ]|_______|[