Buelldozer

joined 2 years ago
MODERATOR OF
[–] [email protected] 2 points 3 hours ago

Listen, the CT is a joke and I'm not defending it. I'm pushing back on provably false information regarding towing and what to expect from a tow hitch. People get killed believing this kind of bullshit. You absolutely SHOULD NOT expect a tow hitch to be able to stand up the vehicles tow capacity rating. Ever. Even transiently.

They went to great lengths to explain that and why a trailer load may transiently exceed it

Transiently, as in for mere moments, exceeding the 1,000lb hitch rating yes, absolutely. Expecting that the hitch will suddenly experience (and hold) the entirety of the tow capcity rating? Absolutely not. That's the exact opposite of the SAE spec. You'd also dramatically exceed the payload rating of every passenger vehicle in existence if it happened.

The other concern they mentioned was aluminum characteristics over time.

Better not look at the suspension of any passenger vehicle made in the last 30 years then.

No one else in the industry will use aluminum for the frame

The CT is unibody, it doesn't have a frame. This isn't me being pedantic either. The difference between the two is fairly important.

They even admit it fared better than they thought

The CT exceeded it's rating by 8 times. Yes the Dodge 2500 did better but so what? It too was well over it's hitch and payload ratings and if you tried to drive it with that kind of weight you'd quickly crash because you couldn't steer or stop.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 3 hours ago (2 children)

And to say, no one expects a thing to do the job that thing is made to do is a dumb comeback.

It's NOT expected to. The SAE has literal standards for this and nowhere in them are you going to find that the tongue needs to support the entirety of the towed weight. In fact it's quite the opposite. None of you know this though because you've never bothered reading them.

Also, what is the point of fighting this?

Because people read this bullshit and then repeat it just like you're doing now. Tons of weight rolling down the road is dangerous. As always the regulations are literally written in blood.

You absolutely should NOT expect your tow hitch to support the entire weight of the trailer. It's NOT in the SAE specs and frankly there's no passenger vehicle in existence that will tolerate that without dramatically exceeding it's payload rating. You probably don't now what is either but when you exceed it you get broken axles, inability to steer, inability to stop, tires blowing up, suspension failure, and structure failure.

Ever seen a truck pulling a camper and the trucks headlights are aimed at the sky while the hitch is nearly dragging the ground? That's what happens when you have too much tongue weight. You can see that's it wrong and yet here's another army of people trying to argue that its just fine because they listened to another youtuber who has no idea WTF they're talking about.

It's wrong and it gets people killed. Stop it.

[–] [email protected] 31 points 1 day ago (1 children)

I...just...what...I...I...I....

Awww fuck this.

Benjamin go get the musket!

[–] [email protected] 9 points 1 day ago

Yes Republicans. Grab that 3rd rail and hold it tightly!

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (8 children)

Then the video is plain wrong in regards to tongue vs tow weight. No truck or trailer manufacturer anywhere in the world adheres to that.

I commonly tow a triple axle trailer that weighs 12,000 pounds with my GMC Sierra 2500HD. That much weight would snap the receiver off and bend the frame if the hitch had to support it all.

The CT is for clowns but that video is stupid and should be disregarded.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 day ago (1 children)

It’s difficult to imagine a group of people voluntarily amassing and then using the resources necessary for “AI” absent the desire to cash in on their investment.

No imagination necessary.

I mean Dmitry Pospelov was arguing for AI control in the Soviet Union clear back in the 70s.

[–] [email protected] 11 points 1 day ago (2 children)

and try to slam your site with like 200+ requests per second

Your solution would do nothing to stop the crawlers that are operating 10ish rps. There's ones out there operating at a mere 2rps but when multiple companies are doing it at the same time 24x7x365 it adds up.

Some incredibly talented people have been battling this since last year and your solution has been tried multiple times. It's not effective in all instances and can require a LOT of manual intervention and SysAdmin time.

https://thelibre.news/foss-infrastructure-is-under-attack-by-ai-companies/

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 day ago (1 children)

PoW uses a lot of electricity on the client side so environmentally it's a poor solution, especially at scale.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 day ago (1 children)

There are residential IP providers that provide services to scrapers, etc. that involves them having thousands of IPs available from the same IP ranges as real users.

Now that makes sense. I hadn't considered rogue ISPs.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 day ago

Sure, network blocking like this has been a thing for decades but it still requires ongoing manual intervention which is what these SysAdmins are complaining about.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago

fail2ban

I'm familiar with f2b. I even have several clients licensed with the commercial version but it doesn't fit this use case as there's no logon failure for it to work with.

I automatically ban any IP that comes from outside the US because there’s literally no reason for anyone outside the US to make requests to my infra.

I have systems setup with geo-blocking but it's of limited use due to the prevalence of VPNs.

also, use a WAF on a NAT to expose your apps.

This isn't a solution either because a WAF has no way to know what traffic is bad so it doesn't know what to block.

[–] [email protected] 7 points 1 day ago

In your example MS makes 65 Billion so if a few business units lost 13 Billion it's NBD, the overall company is still profitable. In this case though Gazprom lost 13 Billion across all units. What's worse is that there's no way for them to get more. They can't sell stock and as a Government Russia is basically broke.

1
submitted 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

One of my computers is an HP Elitebook X360 1040 G8 (convertible) and I'm happy to report that in Laptop Mode both LM21 and LM22 work perfectly. There's full control of the normal hardware including the touch screen, good performance, and good battery life.

With a couple of exceptions Mint also handles the shift to tablet mode pretty damn well. The keyboard and trackpad are disabled, the keyboard backlight shuts off, and the screen easily changes orientation with rotation.

The exceptions though are so fundamental to touch screen use in general though that I feel like I must be missing something?!

First and foremost is an on screen keyboard. I know it can be enabled under accessibility settings but when I do that it splashes up a keyboard that permanently fills half the screen. If I close the keyboard window it goes away but I can't find a way to get it to come back except to unfold the machine and re-enable it again.

It may not be possible to make it launch predicatively, although Gnome itself does. but why isn't there an icon at the top or bottom of the screen that I can tap to bring it back on demand?

The second one is scrolling, especially in Firefox. I know that Grab and Drag is possible because you can do it with the regular Firefox scroll bar but the scroll bar can be difficult to get on because of it's size and even then the scrolling action is backwards of both iOS and Android. This should be fixable be enabling gestures but surprisingly gestures don't have any assignable scroll functionality.

I'm really confused by these two issues. They seem so fundamental to how a touchscreen is used, especially the on screen keyboard, that it seems impossible they weren't addressed year ago. It's far more probably that I'm missing something obvious, but what?

 

I've had at least one computer with regular Mint + Cinnamon installed since V19 and it's always worked well for me. I somehow only learned about LMDE last month and since I've previously run Debian I figured I'd give it a shot.

I took the drive with my LM22 installation out and installed a brand new 1TB NVME, put LMDE "Faye" on it and YIKES.

I'd forgotten how "raw" regular Debian is in nearly everything from Grub to package management and even Cinnamon is somehow less sharp and sort of lackluster on LMDE.

The first boot up went okay but trying to swap the nouveau drivers for the Nvidia drivers did not go well at all and somehow ended up with all the fonts and icons broken.

I couldn't figure out how to fix it and decided to simply re-install LMDE from scratch, no big deal.

On the 2nd install I started getting AER errors on boot and every time I rebooted I got more of them. At one point the DE locked up entirely and I had to manually power cycle the machine. I couldn't get to the desktop after because of an endless string of AER errors.

In between reboots, while I could still get into the desktop, I was installing updates and while that process was pretty much the same as regular Mint it was also slower, even after changing over to the fastest repositories available. The update manager also didn't work as well. For instance the first update run said it was complete and wanted a reboot but before I could do that the update manager automatically ran again and it showed me all the updates it had just installed as needing installed again. WTF?

After frustrations with the Nvidia drivers, the weirdness of updating, broken desktop environment, and the AER errors I decided to see what would happen if I installed regular LM22.

With LM22 on that exact same hardware, including the new NVME, everything works perfectly. No errors, Nvidia drivers installed without issue, updates worked as expected and Cinnamon looks and behaves just like you'd expect.

Swapped out the NVME for the original drive that had LM22 on it and it too works just like I'd expect.

I'm not running weird-o hardware either; it's a Gigabyte motherboard and an Intel i5 10700k with 32G of RAM and an Nvidia 2060. No overclocking or performance tweaks.

I have no idea what I did wrong, if anything, or why LMDE seems to hate my hardware but for me on that system LMDE is not at parity with regular Linux Mint.

 

New York may become the first state to bar gun companies from selling pistols that can easily be converted into machine guns.

16
submitted 11 months ago* (last edited 11 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

I read the sidebar and didn't see anything about asking questions so apologies in advance if this post breaks a rule.

I'm in the U.S. and wanting to knowif Proton Family is a good choice for my use case.

Two decades ago I got tired of changing email addresses whenever my ISP changed so I registered my surname as a .net vanity domain and started running my own email server at home. When Google started offering Google for Organizations for free if you had less than 10 users I folded up my personal email server and shifted everything over. We use it for e-mail and basic family calendaring.

Last month when going through bills my wife and I were once again frustrated by coordination required to sign into various accounts. "Hey what's the password for $CreditCard?" or "What's the MFA you just got for $BankAccount?" or "What's the password for Disney"?"

That got me started looking for a family password manager so we could easily share and keep this stuff up to date.

At the same time we realized that were paying for YouTube TV, YouTube Premium, two YouTube Music, and an Amazon Music subscription. Whoops.

Well, no problem. We'll just "family share" the YTTV and YTP subscriptions so everyone has everything and we save some money.

Nope. G-Suite doesn't allow family sharing. So we're all going to have to create seperate @gmail.com addresses to make this work. Oh, and I'll have to shift the YTTV subscription from my vanity domain to a regular @gmail as well. Which breaks the entire idea behind the vanity domain in the first place.

While I researching a Family Password Manager of course I found Proton Pass. While I was looking at the pricing for it I realized that they also have a "Family" setup for email which looks interesting.

So now I'm considering porting my vanity domain and all it's email out of G-Suite and over to Proton Family. At nearly $300 a year it's not exactly inexpensive, since I'd basically be paying it until I die, and it will be a fair bit of work to switch everything over so I don't want to do it unless it's going to work.

So would Proton Family be a good choice? Are there any significant technical challenges to migrating a custom domain and email out of G-Suite and into Proton?

Edit: This post was rambly and unclear. The TL;DR is that I’m increasingly annoyed with G-Suite and since I’m looking at Proton Pass anyway I'm wondering about Proton Suite (which includes Email, Calendar, and Pass).

17
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

Always surprises me when I go to do something in HA and realize that I can't figure out how.

This time its lights, specifically making sure that they don't get left on.

Until now I've simply been creating an automation for each light switch so that if it changes state from Off to On and when it's 30 minutes after sunrise it's starts a 15 minute wait and then changes the state of the switch to off.

This approach mostly works but it's less than ideal.

First I'm having to create an automation for each device. How do I do it by Area, or list / group of devices, instead?

Second if a device is turned on too early there's no state change for the automation to catch and it never fires. I could fix this by creating another automation that checks for it but then I'll have even more of them to manage.

Third this doesn't work very well if you want different things to happen on the weekends as opposed to during the weekday. For instance on a Saturday I may WANT that closet light to stay on longer because I'm putting away clothes.

It'd be really nice if I could program HA like this 'On a weekday if you see any device on this list turn on 30 minutes after Sunrise I want you to turn whichever one(s) it was off again 15 minutes later.'.

I'm must be missing something here because surely HA can do this, right?

16
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

Shortly after the ratGDO v2.5 was released I ordered one and a couple of days later I ordered a case from Etsy to go with it.

Two days later the Etsy seller messages me asking if have the v2.5 or v2.5i because the cases are different. WTF? There's already a new version?! I tell the seller to make it the v2.5i because that's probably what I'll get.

So last week I received a very nice red case from the Etsy Seller HighTower3D out of the North Carolina. Seriously, this thing is nice. The build quality is high, it has magnets in the bottom for mounting, comes with allen screws (and the allen wrench you need) and a couple of little zip ties.

So this week my ratGDO shows up and...it's v2.52i! A quick check of the website shows that there's now a v2.53 and that makes four revisions in the last month!

You can't make this stuff up so all I can do is laugh...and give away the v2.5i case that I spent $26 on and doesn't fit the ratGDO version I ended up with.

I have no use for this case so I'm giving it away to someone who can; make sure you have a v2.5i though because this call will NOT fit any other version.

If you are in the United States and can use this case then leave a reply below. 😊

 

I ordered some sidewalk heating mats from HeatTrak and I want to automate them with HA so that they come on when it makes sense to do so based on the data from my Tempest Weather Station.

According to HeatTrack my mats will have a combined resistive load of 5A which is well within the spec of the Zooz ZEN05 or ZEN14, both rated for 15A resistive loads, but when I asked them about it they did not recommend using either of them with heated mats. They couldn't, or wouldn't, explain why and it doesn't make sense to me why this wouldn't work.

My next thought was to simply swap the outlet to something smart but this is an outdoor outlet so it needs to be GFCI and there's essentially no Z-Wave GFCI outlets made.

Do I really need to use something like an Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus 40-Amp contactor for this or am I missing something here?

 

I have an automation that turns my driveway lights on when motion is detected. It normally works fairly well but it was windy last night and that caused the automation to trip endlessly as my trees and bushes were whipping around. Lights would come on, shut off 10 minutes later, then turn right back on again. It basically did this all night until I disabled the automation.

I'll do some fine tuning of the motion sensors which will help and I'm considering adding a condition to the automation where it won't trip if the wind speed is above a certain level but how can I add some kind of cool down timer to the automation to prevent it from endlessly engaging?

 

First the layout. My garage is setup similar to this one, although mine is attached, has three light fixtures, and my driveway is 4 cars wide.

The wife wants me to replace the three basic on / off fixtures that we have (they're getting rusty) and keep them all matching. If I'm going to do this I want to add a camera to the setup.

Functionally I'd like the lights to have or work like they have dual bright capability where they come on full bright at sunset then after a couple of hours they dim down unless they detect motion. If they detect motion then they come back to full bright for a period of time then dim back down again. They do this for a set period of hours, say 4, then they turn off completely unless they detect motion.

My current lights are already automated for on / off (but not dimming or motion) through the use of HA and a z-wave switch.

Where I'm getting stuck is that I can see at least three ways to do this but none of them are perfect.

  1. Replace my dumb carriage fixtures with new dumb fixtures then change the switch to a dimming version plus add a motion sensor and camera out front. Then setup HA for the functionality I want. The upside of doing it this way is that it's very easy to get matching fixtures. The downside is that the motion sensor and camera will not be well integrated visually.

  2. Replace my dumb fixtures with ones that have dual bright built in. It's easy to do, and I could even keep the HA Automation I have setup now, but again the camera setup is not going to integrate well visually. I'm also concerned that three motion sensors controlling three lights will cause trouble for the camera (or each other) because they will react to different things and turn themselves on and off independently.

  3. Replace my dumb fixtures with smarter ones. In the center position I'd use one that has an integrated motion sensor and camera. This Reolink seems like it would work pretty well. However RL doesn't make any fixtures that match it, which means my center fixture would look different than the other two.

I may just have to deal with mismatched fixtures but does anyone have any suggestions? Am I missing an option?

 

The U.S. House of Representatives has one voting member for every 747,000 or so Americans. That’s by far the highest population-to-representative ratio among a peer group of industrialized democracies, and the highest it’s been in U.S. history.

 

Radically expanding the House of Representatives would help solve some of the biggest problems facing Congress and, by extension, the country.

 

The next step in my HA journey is adding cameras; indoor, outdoor, and doorbell so I've been exploring my options. I had originally intended to do a Frigate setup, I even have a Coral module and PC to do it with, but then I discovered Reolink.

Without having any experience with them they look nearly ideal. They seem to have tight integration with HA 2023.3 or later and their pricing and functionality look good.

They seem like a no brainer but I've noticed that they're often NOT the first recommendation in the HA Community. Why is that and why shouldn't I use them?

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