Nah, but I will print a temperature tower if it's a new filament - even if it's very similar to a filament I've had before. (As long as it's not an identical replacement. If it's an identical replacement and the previous isn't ancient, I won't even do that.)
solarbird
joined 2 years ago
Having done this, you can also get a "3D pen" that will work with your filament and that'll work decently well for small areas, and you can also use it to fill in gaps. Overheat the PLA a bit and work fast.
Like you, I've got a little assortment of spools I either printed or modified for this purpose - and in different sizes - and they work great. I'm at the point of getting spoolless filament when I can and I haven't seen a downside yet.
But if I'm going to get a new spool with my filaments, I'd prefer it be cardboard.
Yep, and that was like... the second thing I did for my printer. Since then I've gone to printing out of a warming box, but I still use the roller occasionally and I'm still glad I did it, it solved problems.
Oh wow, that looks hilarious, but in a fuck yeah you mad lad way. Is it the tower resonating or the part you're printing? If it's the tower I'd bet money you could solve the last of the problems with some kind of wall attachment for the tower. (Clip if you actually do haul it around, bracket if you don't.)
I had similarly good luck with a height mod on my 3V2 but that thing has a lot more mass to it, I expected it to work. I would not have expected this to work.
Also yeah instead of paper for levelling I bought a feeler gauge and it's way more reliable since, well, that's what it's for, as opposed to paper where thicknesses can be all over the place. They cost very little (under $10 USD) so they're something I consistently recommend.
I am running magnetic sheet on glass bed with magnetic layer and it works great for me. I get a lot of weird pushback from people but... yeah, it works fine. And you can swap out plates and keep the rigidity and thermal mass of glass. If you don't want that then yeah, go straight to putting the magnetic sheet on the heating plate itself, but I've had heat-evenness issues and I like the extra thermal inertia so it solves problems for me.
I wrote it all up here if anyone wants to see details:
oh hells yeah have some colour
Yeah, exactly this.
You could also make it more colourful safely for the moment by filling the letters with different colours of play-doh.
There are a lot of places you can get usable PCs for stuff like 3D printing for a lot less money. For most of this stuff, most decent-quality 10-year-old machines are fine - it doesn't require a lot of computing power.
And if you're near a Microcentre, you can often get Ender 3 (very entry level) printers for as low as $80 plus tax. It's in-person only though.
But I think I very much like the idea of checking out your local libraries, which generally have computers and sometimes have 3D printers you can use for free or nearly-free. You'll most likely have to supply your own filament, but you can get started on that for $20, so that's something to think about.
If the extruder is clicking, it's able to grasp the filament. It's that it's trying to move it forward, literally can't, and it slips and makes that click. That also grinds down the filament at the wheel as well.
I've printed fine with eSun PLA+ on an Ender 3 V2, it's a very straightforward filament in my experience. Not my favourite, but it's fine. (Their cleaning filament by contrast is excellent and I recommend it highly.) I would take apart the entire filament path and make sure it is incredibly clean, because this really sounds to me like a recurring clog issue caused by some particulate matter, which can include extraheated filament hat no longer wants to melt right.
oh that's pretty great :D
When my house got electricity in 1924, they got a backlit front light for over the doorway. It wasn't in good shape when we found it, but it was there, and I got it back together - except for the lighting. Which this really, really makes me want to fix now. :D