3DPrinting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6NnKHzHC1s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6NnKHzHC1s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6NnKHzHC1s

I’ve been noticing an unsettling trend in the 3D printing world: more and more printer manufacturers are locking down their devices with proprietary firmware, cloud-based software, and other anti-consumer restrictions. Despite this, they still receive glowing reviews, even from tech-savvy communities.

Back in the day, 3D printing was all about open-source hardware, modding, and user control. Now, it feels like we’re heading towards the same path as smartphones and other consumer tech—walled gardens, forced online accounts, and limited third-party compatibility. Some companies even prevent users from using alternative slicers or modifying firmware without jumping through hoops.

My question is: Has 3D printing gone too mainstream? Are newer users simply unaware (or uninterested) in the dangers of locked-down ecosystems? Have we lost the awareness of FOSS (Free and Open-Source Software) and user freedom that once defined this space?

I’d love to hear thoughts from the community. Do you think this is just a phase, or are we stuck on this trajectory? What can we do to push back against enshitification before it’s too late?

(Transparency Note: I wrote this text myself, but since English is not my first language, I used LLM to refine some formulations. The core content and ideas are entirely my own.)

So I got a ~~floppy~~ flippy drive for my GameCube and I wanna have the SD card accessible.

But instead of hacking off the original I thought it would be fun to design my own.

So far I got it to fit well enough. However some dimensions needs adjustments before I start final prints.

I need to print some improved tubing connectors, 3 different types - 80 Pcs total, for a pair of crappy shelving units my Wife bought off of Walmart. The originals were as minimal material as possible without missing the nylon tree completely.

The Klipperized Mk3s with a .60mm nozzle is nearly as fast as the mini with a .40mm nozzle. Once again proving it's not how fast you say you can go, but how fast the parts let you go..........

Hello 3d printer fans and makers. I currently have an a1 mini and have been putting it through its paces over the last several months. Ive probably used 5kg of filament and have maybe a few hundred hours of prints on it. I love the little machine, its a work horse. But it cannot print most engineering materials and Im looking to branch into more exotic prints and get myself a bigger build volume.

My first thought was getting the a1 with ams for multifilament printing and then I would have an ams I could use with either printer, but upon ruminating on the subject multifilament printing this way really seems to be such a gimmick and if I really want to do it there's always stop code and manual filament switching. Plus its another bed slinger with the only real change being the larger build volume.

So that brings me to the Qidi Q1 Pro. All the reviews really talk it up, I like that its built on klipper and an open ecosystem (-1 for Bambu), the hotend max temp, the heated champer, the larger build plate, and the price? All seems like a big win to me.

My current plan is buying the printer along with a filament dryer, I dont really want to get their drybox attachment, a smooth build plate, some CF something filament, and 0.6mm nozzle as accessories.

Do you all have any thoughts on polydryer, if the 3 x-plus might be something to consider if I really want a bigger build plate than what the Q1 pro offers, or if there might be another printer for me to consider in the $500-700 range. Also, any recommendations on filaments I might want to try with a heated chamber, 100C build plate, and 350C capable hot end? Im leaning towards something nylon and/or carbon fiber... maybe PA-CF? lol.

Anyways, any input is appreciated. Thanks!

Im working with an old reprap cotroled directly with an Laptop with cura. Filament is RS-Pro (2325395) Pla though. Open around 4 weeks ago but i have this problem in some capacity since i have this Filament. Before i had some really old pla which snapped all the time because it wss so brittle. Is this really just shitty Filament? Help/ Insight would be much appreciated.

Even with all the Controversy that rightfully surrounds them, I still think that this could be well worth Discussing given thier Track Record.

While it is likely just Marketing Jumbo, the Whole "Rethink Personal Manufacturing" stuff does make me think that this double extrusion stuff is more than just 2 Lossless Filament changers. What do you folks think? What will be the Killer Feature of the H2D?

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.bestiver.se/post/277564

Comments

Hi there, I recently started looking into multicolor 3d printers, and found the Anycubic Kobra 3. I am not interested in the Bambu Lab printers, never have been honestly I just didn't like the closed source nature of their products.

I have seen tons of mixed reviews on the printer, and am just wondering what y'all think. Keep in mind, my current printer is an Ender 3 V3 SE. Also, it seems to go on sale frequently, so I will be grabbing the Kobra at $350, not the $500 "MSRP"

Thanks in advance

I've had an interest in 3d printing for a while and had a few models on my wishlist, but long story short a mutual friend wanted an upgrade, and I was the first one to accept their model that they no longer needed. I cannot ask them for help. I'll probably try to ask them what specifically they changed about the printer, but I can't know that they'll take the time to respond to me.

I'd like to know where to start with this. I got what seems like an entire 3d printer in addition to a box with a bunch of parts and stuff in it. I'm wondering if I should disassemble the printer and put it back together to get an idea of what I'm dealing with? Or if I should just be grateful it's together and try and use it. It'd also be helpful if someone could help me identify which parts are not stock and what I should expect while using those parts.

Thank you,

Semi

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The Model is on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6979927

and Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1230465-gamecube-flippydrive-bracket-plus-space-for-micro

The original bracket didn't have the clearance I needed for my MicroSD Card extender so I modeled a new one based on the 3D Printed part I got with my FlippyDrive.

Currently remaking the GameCube IO Panel as well. Hoping when I am done I can add a clean spot for the Micro SD Card.

I'm working on a replacement for a broken shelf in my fridge door. It's about 37.6 cm (14.8") on the longest axis so I need to print it in two pieces (as shown in the screenshot). Does anyhone have a good idea for a connection between the two that will be sturdy enough? The fridge door will support it from below for about half of its depth, the rest hangs free.

Wall thickness is currently at 3mm but I can increase it a bit if needed.

They've been coming out fine for about 700 hours (of print time, not light on time) now on my Photon Mono M5s Pro. Now it looks like someone craved a chunk out of it with a knife or something. Here & here.

Edit: Looks like a dead pixel

Pics https://ibb.co/album/sbjqwT (the weird triangle on the lower piece was fixed afterwards)

I've been messing around with a press mold so I can make hex tiles using paper mache, or something else that is easily and cheaply available.

The problem I've been having is with the sides, which rarely get properly pressed. What should I do to possibly fix this, regarding the model?

Right now, I've only experimented with minced paper and water, which led to satisfying results. What other things could I add or try for this kind of press? What could I apply on the mold to make the paper less likely to stick? Vaseline doesn't make a difference.

https://github.com/huggingface/lerobot

Still an early project, but interesting one. Cost around 100€ to build. Main developer worked at Tesla in the past and notably on Prometheus project.

GitHub description: "

• LeRobot aims to provide models, datasets, and tools for real-world robotics in PyTorch. The goal is to lower the barrier to entry to robotics so that everyone can contribute and benefit from sharing datasets and pretrained models.

• LeRobot contains state-of-the-art approaches that have been shown to transfer to the real-world with a focus on imitation learning and reinforcement learning.

• LeRobot already provides a set of pretrained models, datasets with human collected demonstrations, and simulation environments to get started without assembling a robot. In the coming weeks, the plan is to add more and more support for real-world robotics on the most affordable and capable robots out there.

• LeRobot hosts pretrained models and datasets on this Hugging Face community page:

-https://huggingface.co/lerobot "

Hey guys! First post here. I hope the movie link works.

I am a Ghost music fan. I’m printing myself, and my Nameless Ghoul friends, masks for the upcoming Summer 2025 Skeleta Skeletour.

This is a prototype mask before I start messing with the settings to custom fit everyone’s heads.

Mask Printed on an Adventurer 5M Pro with a 0.4 nozzle. Filament is PLA Kingroon Green/Blue/Red. Layer height is 0.2. Took about 2.5 hours or so—I print slower than the printer is probably capable. Spliced with Orcaslicer.

SLT file from creator EEKSEYE Papa Emeritus V Mask

Hope to post some of my other creations soon. :)

The link is to a YouTube video I just uploaded showing my printer clicking.

I don't know what more to say about it to be honest. The clicking kind of sounds like the drive wheel skipping against the stepper motors sprocket. But when I investigated I found both the sprocket and the plastic gear in perfect condition.

It also did the dynamic flow and vibration calibrations before it started this print.

It's kind of annoying having to sit behind my head clicking for 6 hours, I'm wondering if this is something that I can fix.

Edit: changed Tiktok to YouTube

I've come to Realize that it seams the Printhead on my P1S is Slightly lose. If I push up on it, it ever so slight moves up. I can Basically wiggle it. That also suggests why I have been having what has been assumed to be Bed Leveling Issues. If the Head moves up in the Auto Bed Leveling Process, all things get messed up.

To give a bit more Detail, I think its the Carbon Rods. A while back I made the Mistake of Greasing those, something I realized was wrong 2 Prints later. Ever since then when I clean the Rods, the Towel I use returns Fully Caked in Black. Messuring the Rods, what should be 10mm in size has become 9.75mm, which is probably why it wiggles.

The Question is, if this is even a big deal and if I'm right about the bed leveling issue theory. Its a 100€ Replacement, So I really wanna make sure...

I have been looking at least prototyping in TPU 3D printed dog toys.

Last Post: https://lemmy.blahaj.zone/post/22333556

I tried properly Cleaning the Plate as Suggested, I also Relubed the Z Axis Screws, infact I even got a Brand new Bambu Cool Plate Supertack, since I wanted something for smooth prints anyway. While with Both, the Bed Test did seem pretty much perfect, Small Localized bits of Underextrusion still Remain...

I've been trying to Perfect the quality of the Print you can see in the Picture above, but nothing I do seems to work. Let me show you some Close ups of the issue areas:

Seems to both Underextrude and mix the Black and White PLA Matte Together in Certain Spots. Its important to note that I did 2 Seperate Prints with all the exact same Settings on the same spot. All the issues above appear the same between the 2, with exception of this streaking:

Before Printing it did auto bed leveling both times, as well as Cleaning with detergent. It should also be noted, if I move the model to a different spot on the plate, it'll yield different issues and sometimes non at all.

Honestly, I really don't know what is happening here anymore. Its been just really frustrating as I've been trying to perfect the quality for this Print in Particular for over a month now yet nothing works...