This makes me think the idea my coworker and I had to start our own business would be really profitable. We both have experience with mold making. And sex toys are a huge industry. What is an underrepresented category we could make a market for? Fish.
Fuck-A-Fish we would call it. Fleshlite-esque fish to bang. All different kinds. Realistically modeled and painted. And we would have a whole line of products to use with them. Like Love Chum, a textured lubricant.
Well, I'll give that a try, too then. Thanks for investigating! At least it's not just me that can't get it to work.
I still have my copy. I cannot believe that song is like, 18 years old now. It was such a staple of my college experience.
I'll definitely check out OPL-PC-Tools, thanks! HDL Batch Installer just hangs on open, checking for updates. I have been running Mint since November. I can't get OPL manager to launch at all. Regular Wine, Proton, nothing. I've tried brand new prefixes with fresh .NET runtime, it just refuses to start.
The ONLY thing I still apparently need Windows for is running OPL Manager and HDL Batch Installer for my Playstation 2 hard drives. Can anyone point me in a direction of Linux alternatives? I managed to get WinHiip running in Wine, but it can't see the PS2 HDD from Wine. Pretty sure I need something that runs native, and for the life of me I cannot find anything. Which is really surprising to me.
I think I'm hopping to TempleOS. It's going to take more than Windows to save me from this.
The HP-41C is RPN! Top row. That's a timeless classic!
I want a 15C, but those are more than I usually want to spend.
Yeah, no problem!
I don't get it either, but the heart wants what it wants!
Yeah, I didn't get mine until halfway through college in like, 2008. By that time, I was pretty well-versed in the 86. I had a bunch of dog ears in the giant manual it came with. At some point, I still want to do the AGS-001 frontlight mod to it. People have taken the frontlight panel out of the original Gameboy advance sp and put it in the 86. I've been thinking about doing it for the last 20 years, should just do it.
I really don't know why. I don't take that many notes. When I'm in meetings, I've been telling people I color code my notes. But honestly, I have just been switching pens at random.. I'm never going to use all this ink before they dry up, and it's going to be a pain to clean them all. Normally, I'll only have one or two inked at a time.
I got this when he sold his house to move to an assisted living facility. It's just been sitting in my garage for a couple years. Busy with the kid and all that. Well, we just got a little child trailer, and I didn't want to pull it with my mountain bike so figured it would be a good time to clean this guy up. New tires and tubes. Cleaned and lubed. Waxed. I thought it was trying hard to look like an old Schwinn, so I thought some nice shiny fenders would help out with that.
I have so many memories of going on rides with him, and of him taking it camping. I always thought it was a nice looking bike. I'll have to show him a picture of it all cleaned up next time I see him, I don't think he's ridden it in at least a decade.
Next on the agenda is new brake pads, and some retro lights. Any other suggestions? Maybe a white saddle seat, or different handlebars? I'm pretty sure its only value is sentimental, so the best suggestions are cheap suggestions. Thanks!
I can't stand the SpaceMouse Pro. They ruined it! Why would they swap the nice tactile buttons for stupid gummy membrane buttons? And why coat the whole thing in nasty soft touch coating that is going to turn to goo? We peaked with the previous generation of space balls.
Since I've been working from home though, it has gotten quite annoying to unplug my SpaceExplorer and take it back and forth to the office. It would be so nice to have one of those fancy new wireless ones. But that's not happening, since they ruined it.
So, I added USB-C to mine, instead. Now, I'll just have a cable at the office, and a cable at home and just take the unit itself back and forth. I can even leave a USB-C to USB-C cord in my case, in case I need to use it with my laptop away from my docks! If anyone is interested, I can share the STL for the little breakout board mounting piece I made.
I tried just about every suggestion here, but still couldn't get an airtight print. This is transparent PLA. I'm going to play with my speeds and overlap to try to get it clearer, but it was dimensionally accurate and completely sealed the first try.
Don't look too carefully at the barrel, it's just a hollow test one. I was able to eyedropper fill and test the grip section with it, but the OD is wrong, and there's no real filling mechanism in it. That's phase 2 of this project!
I believe we have 3 more to find. I especially look forward to the Red Baron one. They all have new crystals and straps.
I had a really hard time capturing the colors right here for the buttons and the minute hand. In real life, they're much closer than they look here. The GBA has a Funnyplaying IPS, and the watch is a HEAVILY modded Seiko SKX. Honestly, the only things original are the case, crown tube, and bezel at this point.
I found this, of course, at an antique store. The celluloid of the cap and blind cap are gray/silver and black, and the barrel is gray/silver and clear. The nib is terrible, and after this pic I swapped it for a FPR flex. There is no branding anywhere, and I'd really love to know who made it so I could find some of their other pens. In my experience, cheap pens typically use lever fillers. So, this is an unusual one for me.
I love the materials used in old Wearever pens. They had some absolutely beautiful celluloid. And if you're into restoration, you can find them very cheap in varying stayes of disrepair at most antique stores.
I bought this set for around $10. The hardware was completely tarnished, the celluloid scratched and hazy, nib missing, and the barrel and cap were cracked.
I solvent welded the cracks, used all three levels of Novus polish, then buffed with jewelers rouge. I have a tiny Jinhao nib in there currently, it's nicer than most Wearever nibs I've used. And, of course a new sac.
I'm pretty new to PETG, and have been really struggling with it compared to PLA. My latest print of this part is dimensionally accurate, but I need it to be air tight. It is very much not at the moment.
I have a Flashforge Adventurer 3, so the hot end and nozzle are one interchangeable unit. My higher temp nozzle is 0.6mm. My 0.3mm is only capable of 240. My last print was 0.2mm layers, with the 0.6mm nozzle at 245C. I used 15% overlap on my walls, and in order to keep my nice dimensions I had my cooling fan on.
Anybody have any advice on how to improve the seal? I'm tempted to try more overlap, with random start locations per layer. Do you think if I run it hotter I can get the layers a little thinner? Any advice would be appreciated.
My Virtual Boy Pocket. Black OEM front shell, red OEM back shell. Glass lens from Bluish Squirrel. It's a red led backlight mod, biverted. I used a 4 position switch and some resistors for 3 levels of brightness and off. Next to it is a BennVenn El Cheapo that my wife was kind enough to make a label for to match the scheme.
The action of the buttons is fantastic on this. However, the red backlight will sear your retinas out if you play too long. A couple of games of Tetris, and the whole world looks green for a while. I think it just adds to the Virtual Boy experience.
I figured something out. Used Sunshine/Moonlight to basically VPN in while it's in 1920x1080 and changed it to 1280x1024. Now, it remembers that's the resolution when that's the only monitor.