GullibleOyster

Yeah mobi support got removed earlier this year. Epubs work fine for me though once use calibre to remove the DRM.

My wife and I really enjoyed playing The Quarry together. It's one of those games where it is more of a movie with decisions so I would do all of the controls and she would do the decisions.

Mostly just for removal! I print a lot of giant pots for my houseplants and I'm impatient.

Let me know how the Manta goes, I have a duet wifi I was considering using for this that is currently on an old project. Has someone made a wiring diagram for the harness or are you just redoing all of the wiring? Last I looked I couldn't find a Pinout diagram for either the harness or the board.

I personally like the strain gauge as a leveling mechanism, particularly since I added a magnetic build plate. I like the idea of #2, I wonder if you could use a M10 male to make adapter like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/404101432925?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=404101432925&targetid=1529314447630&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=1014257&poi=&campaignid=20398926916&mkgroupid=148892907822&rlsatarget=pla-1529314447630&abcId=9317285&merchantid=759262499&gclid=CjwKCAjwvrOpBhBdEiwAR58-3GcDoYiTk2pI6UQYjkseFyjCi99dch8PZQjWqWdVfneK6-DX-6hiiRoCuc0QAvD_BwE

And just connect your adapter plate to the hotend (or tap the orbiter? Idk)

You might need a little printed spacer and a short Bowden tube inside that.

Other little nice things/learnings for the printer I have done other than the spring steel sheet:

If you want an all metal hotend you can replace the heartbreak with a slice engineering copperhead heartbreak (use a G2 type)

If you want color change capabilities, to have finer z adjust, and to have a larger mesh, i recommend trying the following custom firmware (IF YOU ARE CONFIDENT WITH THIS KIND OF STUFF)

https://github.com/wabbitguy/Kobra_Max

Nice move! I think you have it correctly mounted though, I wouldn't put it on a bracket. I used a conversion bracket for direct drive on my Max and I kept getting pulsing issues.

I think they were due to the filament pushing down the hotend slightly when starting to extrude because the hotend is mounted on the compliant strain gauge mount. With your method, it stays isolated and doesn't push down more on the strain gauge mount when the extrusion starts.

Please give me an update if you can if you run into any other problems!

I'm having a blast playing 4 player co-op with some buds! The DM of our DnD campaign moved and hasn't had the chance to set up his computer for our Foundry VTT so this has been a bunch of fun in the meantime.

Idk what this guy is using, but I've installed wham bam flex plates on 2 large resin printers and I consider it almost a requirement. It makes print removal super easy and installation is real easy.

https://whambamsystems.com/flexible-build-system

I'm a big fan of welding parts together using a 3D pen and the filament I printed with. Then, if it's not super clean, I make the edge flush with a small chisel.

That or uv adhesive to tack parts together and then CA glue and remove the adhesive.

Nice! I've got a Wagner from around the same time with a similar story, thing is my favorite frying pan!

Yeah, I guess if you wanted to reduce waste you could supply it as logs that get cut off from? That way there is at least less plastic per piece

My friend who used to work there told me her least favorite thing to make was the Mexican pizza because of all of the layers.

I've got an Anycubic Kobra Max at home for big prints that is relatively reliable and a corexy poject printer cobbled together from about 10 different sources.

My first printer was a makerfarm i3v in 2014.